Saturday, October 31, 2009

Neglected and Dejected

Well, the idea that this would become a community blog has pretty much flopped. If it weren't for the Eastern Idaho boys and their posts, it would just be me. Now that the summer guiding season has tapered off and winter has yet to arrive, I have some time. So here are a few pictures from the fall.

Rapping off the Comp Splitter at the Castles. I've climbed this beautiful crack a few times now and it is sooo good! This time we did the second pitch, 5.10, which comes highly recommended. I would suggest a #3 cam, which we didn't have... if you have the gear you might try linking both pitches together into one long SPLITTER! I have yet to do it, but I have linked some of the face pitches together on Shop and Compare to the left.

Cedar Creek... it's interesting that the Lost River Mountains have so many "cedar creeks", but yet no cedars! Really, they are junipers. Regardless, the new crag has really taken shape this past season. At some point I'll do a guide on here, but for now the Elephant's Perch in Ketchum has a hand written explanation of the routes. We've got about 25 routes up so far and room for another 10-15 more. It's a nice 45 minute hike in, with the option of camping near the routes. The grades range from 5.7 - 5.13, with most in the 5.10 -5.11 range. The rock is of very good quality and features jugs, crimps, edges and the occasional pocket. Stay tuned for information on the area.

My great friend, neighbor and client, Wolf, getting some milage in before his trip to Nepal. Wolf is off today to climb Ama Dablam! I'm so jealous! Ama Dablam has always inspired me, from the first time I saw a photo of it as a teenager. Good Luck Wolf and have a fantastic experience! Here is a photo of the peak.

Finally, here a few pictures of the quintessential cragging area, Wallstreet, just outside of Moab, Utah. Aki and I renewed our WFR certifications at the AMGA Annual Meeting. We managed to get a few pitches in after class with our friend Toby, who is living in Moab these days. What fun!!!

Toby, getting around on his "high speed" scooter!

"Flakes of Wrath" ... really, I'm suppose to place and trust a stopper here in this desert sandstone???
Toby, on his project, "Last Tango in Potash" 5.11+. A mixed route with tricky sequences... next time Toby!

Thanks for taking the time to read... please join in and post something. Remember, this is suppose to be a community blog!

Pray for Snow, or at least a little ice in the meantime!


  1. Hi Marc,
    Sorry your blog has not taken off. I know the gang I climb with was a bit put off by the "secret" status of "your" crag. In a small climbing community, keeping secrets is the same as telling everyone "You are not my friend". Naturally, the reaction is F-U too! Sad. That said,I did climb there and was impressed by the efforts you made and the cool routes. Nice work!

  2. dude the comp wall splitter is so bad ass!

  3. Hey Dave-
    Thanks for the comment. Yea, I definitely struggle with the whole "secrecy" thing. The main reason was that when I started development, I was in a cast and unable to climb the routes I was bolting. Then, when I was healthy this year, I was ready for disclosure, but the others involved were not. The bottom line is that now we've got lots more "local" climbing with Cedar Creek, Wolftone, and I guess Ian's developing something down south (but it's a secret!).

  4. Tom-
    Yea the comp splitter is super classic! Not that it matters, but I'm not sure it's 5.11, especially when you compare it to other classic City 11a cracks like: Intercepter, Terror of Tiny Town and Scar Tissue (good work Dave!).